Since I still see several hundred users a day comign here, allow me to once again point you to my new blogging home:

http://www.speedlighter.ca

If you were signed up here for email notifications, and even if you were not, go there and sign up again.

Remember, I take questions, and remember, I post every single day, in order to help you get better and better every day at photography!

http://www.speedlighter.ca

If you were signed up here for email notifications, and even if you were not, go there and sign up again. Remember, I take questions, and remember, I post every single day, in order to help you get better and better every day at photography!

Sometimes it is impossible to avoid part of your picture getting over-exposed without your main subject becoming very dark. I didn’t have great improvement with a smaller aperture. What do I have to do in this case?

Good question. A sensor is more like slide film than like negatives: the dynamic range is limited. Meaning you can only show so much difference between lightest and darkest parts of your image.

So when I point at a person in front of a window, they are a silhouette. The aperture makes no difference in this case: not by itself, anyway. But if I increase the exposure (by using  my spot meter, manual mode, or exposure compensation) then they can be correctly exposed, but now the sky behind them is all blown out. Uh oh!

So what can I do?

As usual, there is no single answer. I can (and often do!) the following:

• Move myself. If I shoot from the other side, no problem.
• Move my subject or move my light (unless it is the sun!)
• Use a reflector. That is why photographers always carry reflectors.
• Use my flash! This is why on a sunny day we carry our flash. Sun is very contrasty light. With a flash, we minimize the differences.

An example of flash outside:

Daniel at the Alamo

Without the flash, Daniel would have been too dark (look under his chin), or else the Alamo would have been way too bright.

There is one other way that sometimes works.

I can shoot RAW and hope there is enough dynamic range to contain detail in the sky; and then adjust afterward, using HDR – High Dynamic Range.

I can do this either in Lightroom, by using “filll light”, “recovery” and other exposure adjustments, or by using specialized HDR software like Photomatix.

Photomatix HDR example from one RAW

The original image (which I took Monday in Toronto’s Distillery District) had a very bright, blown out sky, and the foreground was too dark.

But because I shot RAW, I was lucky and there was enough detail “hidden” in the file, and I was able to bring it out.

This works as follows:

1. Shoot a RAW image, expose “in between”.
2. Copy it so that you have five identical images.
3. Make one image two stops darker; make one one stop darker; keep one at the shot setting; make one one stop brighter; and make one two stops brighter. If you shot “in between”, each image should have detail on part of the image.
4. Now run Photomatix software (I used a demo version here, see the watermark).

This is no panacea, and HDR (High Dynamic Range) can look gimmicky and unnatural, but when this works, it can help save you from these high contrast situations.

Normally, for HDR you take multiple exposures, of course. But there is so much “extra” information in a RAW file thatyou can get away with this technique quite often.

Don’t worry, all posts have been moved and all existing posts will remain active here as well as there. Also, new posts will be double-posted for a while yet!

Later afternoon pictures. You can make them look better by adding your own “golden hour” glow. Like this:

Patio at dusk, photo by Michael Willems

To take a picture like this, you might do the following:

• Use an on-camera flash while there is still light;
• First set your camera’s exposure (ISO, aperture, shutter) to get a nice background sky. Ignore the foreground for now.
• Then position yourself such that there is no close subject (remember the inverse square law).
• Use a half CTO gel on the flash (I used a Honl Photo half CTO gel on the speedstrap on my 580EX);
• White balance to “Flash”.
• Take a test shot. If the flash is too bright or too dark, use Flash compensation (+ or 1) to adjust. If the background is not riht, adjust ISO, shutter or aperture.
• A wide angle lens makes it easier.

And Bob’s your uncle: nice colours.

This kind of behaviour, and the fact that these guys can kill blogs without even a mention, is of course intolerable, so I am moving this blog.

Stay tuned: in the next few days it will go live on www.speedlighter.ca – which is a domain I have owned for a while,  just never used. This seems a good opportunity.

It’s live now, but will run parallel with this blog for a few days. Then, I’ll switch over. For now you can keep coming here.

My apologies in advance for moving you to a new URL. Not of my choosing.

Mono, country home (with flash)

But it will be rearranged and full of lights. This is my Mono, Ont. Country home, where Joseph Marranca and I are holding our all-day Advanced Flash workshop.

That snap was taken with the little Panasonic GF1, with its built in little flash raised to very successfully fill in the shadows.